Things to Do and See on a Victoria to Tofino Road Trip: Surfers, this One's for You
In this post, we're paddling out to Tofino–the surfing capital of Canada and a Vancouver Island hot spot. Read on for ferry tips and where to find caves, waterfalls, and dine with goats on your road trip across Vancouver Island, in addition to my favorite surf beaches, Tofino hikes, campsites, restaurants, and more!
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Tofino is a quaint town on Vancouver Island’s west coast known for its rad surf culture and choice waves. Aside from perfect swells, the area also boasts incredible hikes, impressive wildlife, and super tasty restaurants owned by a number of chefs and culinary artists. But to get there, we get to hop on a ferry from the mainland, boat through Canada’s Gulf Islands, and road trip through Vancouver Island, stopping at some pretty incredible attractions along the way. Who’s down for a self-led caving tour? Cliff jumping off waterfalls? Or maybe dining with goats? Yep, you read that right. Read on for what to do on your Vancouver to Tofino road trip, where (and when) to find the best Tofino surfing around, my favorite Tofino restaurants, a select few Tofino hikes, and so much more!
Table of Contents
Reserving Your Ferry
There are a few ferries that get you to Vancouver Island. All take reservations. Listed from south to north:
Black Ball Ferry Line (runs only in the summer months) Port Angeles to Victoria
Anacortes to Victoria
Tswassen (B.C.) to Swartz Bay (just north of Victoria)
Tswassen (B.C.) to Duke Point (1.5 hrs north of Swartz Bay)
Horseshoe (B.C.) to Nanaimo
Reservations aren’t required but are HIGHLY encouraged. Space is limited aboard these vessels and demand is high, so making a reservation ensures you’ll be able to stick to your timeline. We chose to go with the 6 a.m Tswassen to Swartz Bay route, which lands just north of Victoria.
Pro Tip: You MUST arrive to your ferry reservation AT LEAST 31 minutes early or your reservation will be given away and you're forced into that standby life. Learn from my mistakes! Been there, suffered that.
The ferry ride takes you through Canada's beautiful islands off the coast of Vancouver Island. Lighthouses, rocky cliffs, and maybe, if you're lucky, some Orca whales! It's about 1.5 hours all together, and we were able to see sunrise over the islands as we cruised to Swartz Bay. Ideal.
If you have time, drive through the historic town of Victoria! There's so much to see and eat that it could be a trip all on its own. We stopped for a quick breakfast at The Ruby restaurant. It's in the lobby of Hotel Zed and it was delicious!! I mean, just look at this photo. This here is the Pork Hash. Two please, plus one to-go, thanks.
The Road Trip to Tofino
Kinsol Trestle
About an hour and ten from Swartz Bay and after an easy, well-groomed 1.2 kilometer stroll lies the historic Kinsol Trestle - the largest of eight trestles on the Cowichan Valley Trail (part of the Trans-Canada Trail). It's one of the tallest free-standing and spectacular trestles in the world standing nearly 614' above the Kosilah River below. Walk where the tracks once were and then down to the river to see the sun peek through the wood fixtures. Keep an eye out for wildlife–a river otter kept us company!
Dine with Goats at the Old Country market
The Old Country Market in Coombs is an adorable center, but the main attraction? Goats… ON THE ROOF! No joke, you can dine on the market’s patio while goats munch on the grass above. Turns out they make pretty great dinner guests.
Even if the goats aren't out that day, the market itself is worth a stop! A cold case houses 6+ types of smoked salmon, there's a bakery section with incredible baked creations, there are cheeses, souvenirs, jams, crackers, furniture, garden supplies, you name it, they have some version or another of what you're looking for. But dang, was it crowded!
After the market, hop across the street to the ice cream shop for so many flavors it's next to impossible to choose just one. For indecisive people like me, it's a frustrating disaster in the best way possible. I ended up getting some maple, raspberry something and it was so. freaking. good.
There’s also a surf shop, a fruit market, and a hidden sculpture garden surrounded by a restaurant, bookstore, gallery, and more little shops. Cute stopover!
Qualicum Falls
Next stop: Qualicum Falls. It's known as an epic cliff jumping site with gorgeous blue water. We had every intention to take a refreshing dip on that steamy day but after scoping it out and finding no way to emerge from the plunge pool, we decided to play it safe and continue on. Still an easy hike to a beautiful waterfall, though! The other popular falls in the area is Englishman River Falls. It was a tough choice between the two.
Horne Lake Caves
The Horne Lake Caves were one of my favorite stops on the road trip to Tofino. When we heard we could embark on a self-guided tour of three different caves, we were expecting roomy, touristy, and safe. While still safe (for the most part), it was way better than anything I expected, and we were grossly unprepared. Bring a headlamp and helmets if you plan to visit these caves!
The entrance is through a barred gate and once we crouched through, a small stream appeared that we had to avoid while navigating the sharp walls. Every time we thought the cave ended, it was just a small hole in the rock we had to work our way around to continue to the "birth canal" as they call it. We had to climb over a rock formation called "the horse's saddle” by swinging a leg leg over, facing backward, then leaning my entire body back, bending my head a bit, and swinging my other leg behind me to be able to fit through the tight squeeze. The name is appropriate.
The "birth canal" was a big, open round room at the end of the cave that held a puddle of water. While I was crouched in the tiny, wet entrance to the canal, my worst fear happened: MY LIGHT WENT OUT. I was wide-eyed and by myself in a pitch black cave not much bigger than my body. Luckily, instead of assuming the fetal position, I laughed frantically (which is what I do when I get super nervous). I hit the lamp a few times and it magically turned back on. My heart rate calmed a little.
A little nerve-wracking, but so freaking epic and absolutely gorgeous!!! Highly recommend. UNLESS you're claustrophobic - in that case, I'd skip it all together because those caves are less than roomy and darker than I thought possible.
The Hole in the Wall
Publicized but difficult to find, the Hole in the Wall is a fun quick stop right off the highway just outside of Port Alberni. It's a man-made hold through a shale wall that was created to connect the Port Alberni waterline. Park along the pullout and venture down the trail to find the Hole in the Wall sign. From there, follow the logging road down to the river. I'd check your map to make sure you're going the right way because there are a few offshoots where it can get confusing.
After a few photos, a solid dose of freakiness (Covering the riverbed are a ton of inuksuk or man-made statues (like trail markers) and not gonna lie, it's super creepy.), and a scary af HUGE spider that decided to crawl up my leg, we hiked back to the car to find sustenance.
Looking for a free place to rest your head? Check out my post on the How to Find the Best Free Campsites!
We found a rest stop to sleep at for the night so we could enjoy the last stretch of the beautiful drive through the mountains to Tofino in daylight.
Coordinates: 49° 14' 32.244'' N | 124° 47' 4.848'' W
Tofino
A winding road among beautiful alpine lakes and fog rolling over mountain peaks guided us the rest of the way to Tofino.
We arrived in Tofino at around 10 a.m. with a mission: to find a campsite for the night - our one night of luxury ;) Like always, we didn’t plan in advance and finding a campsite over a three-day weekend proved to be pretty challenging. My advice? Reserve in advance if possible. It’ll save yourself a heck of a lot of time!
Where to Camp
Bella Pacifica Campground at MacKenzie Beach had a cancellation for the weekend, so we snagged it, and it turned out to be an epic site to pitch our tent!
Bella Pacifica Campground is right on MacKenzie Beach–one of just two Tofino beaches that allow fires–with relatively nice facilities and a younger crowd. It's also just a 10-minute drive to downtown Tofino.
Wasting zero time, we paid for one night and immediately took off to try arguably the best cafe in town and rent some surfboards.
Other notable Tofino campsites include:
If you'd like to camp closer to Ucluelet:
OR maybe a ton of rain is in the forecast, or you simply prefer a bed instead of the cold, hard ground. If so, check out this list of hotels in the area.
Tofino Restaurants
Rhino Coffee House
Rhino Coffee House
Arguably the best cafe in Tofino, Rhino Coffee House was decked out in repurposed beachy wood with a vintage yet modern-looking vibe (if that's a thing) with delicious donuts and tasty sandwiches! We ordered the orange/blackberry donut, the roast turkey & bacon wrap, and a vanilla latte. Highly recommend. I devoured that wrap like it was nobody's business.
Common Loaf
It was between Rhino and Common Loaf for breakfast that day. Common Loaf is super cute and a little more spacious located on the other side of town. Try their signature breakfast pizza!
SoBo
Didn't get the chance to go here but had every intention to. Taste the land with Sobo's local left coast food!
The Hatch
Shelter
Shelter claimed the title of "Tofino BC's Favorite Restaurant" and not gonna lie, it was pretty dang good. An outdoorsy area features fire tables, the downstairs houses the bar and additional seating, and upstairs is a quiet more intimate dining experience. I ordered the seafood chowder off their "Local Waters" menu, and Arturo ordered the Pan-Seared Local Wild Salmon. Both were delectable. Highly recommend.
Pro tip: arrive after 10 p.m. for $4 beers!
The Hatch
Waterfront dining and poutine, yes please!! The Hatch offers a gorgeous view of the islands and mountains over the docks. They have a ton of delicious beer on tap and for all you sports fans out there, this is where you'll find TVs to watch your favorite games. Happy hour is two-for-one appetizers and $1 off select beers, soooo we ordered a ton of food: Shrimp Tempura, Fish Tacos, and Poutine... duhhhh.
What is poutine you ask?? Allow me to enlighten you. It's french fries, cheese curds, and gravy. Sometimes you'll see pork, sausage, onions, and other toppings mixed in.
It sounds gross, I know, but you gotta try it to understand its magic.
Tacofino
I was SO bitter I didn't get to try one of these legendary fish tacos. Everyone raves about Tacofino, and yes it's a chain but this here is the original, and the line reflected that. Arturo hates lines, so we agreed to come back before closing to snag a taco or two, but it turns out they close early. Wait in the line, just do it, and then tell me how freaking delicious these things are! So.bitter.
Surf Seasons: What to expect
Spring (March – May)
You may find some larger swells from the Northwest subsiding from winter storms, but some seasons see the more saught-after southern swells coming up from the southern hemisphere. This is gold! Once May comes around, the waves die down, which are great for beginner to intermediate surfers to get some practice in before the summer crowds arrive.
Summer (June – August)
Smaller waves and sunshine makes summer the perfect time for beginners looking to test the waters. Conditions are best at sunrise before the harsh winds pick up.
Fall (September – November)
Rumor has it that fall is the best time of year for Tofino surf. The water is the warmest this time of year, winds switch to offshore, and the beach crowds dissipate. The first larger swells (10+ feet) typically arrive in October. If you’re around, swing by for one of the many surf events happening this time of year like Queen of the Peak, the Women’s Canadian Surf Championships, held in Cox Bay.
Winter (December – March)
December is the start of Tofino’s winter storm season with 20-30-foot waves, and with offshore winds sticking around, this is the big-wave surfer’s dream. There are still some sheltered areas for beginners.
Tofino surf Rentals and Lessons
Braving the cold waters of the Pacific Northwest is definitely a test of character. We're talking wetsuits, booties, gloves, and even hoods on occasion, but don’t let that deter you from the fun. There’s nothing quite like surfing in the Pacific Northwest, and if there’s a place to do try it, it’s here, in the surfing capital of Canada.
Pacific Surf Co.
After much research, we settled on Pacific Surf Co. as our rental gurus. They offer Tofino surf lessons and rentals, sell sick apparel, and has the mission to "create the opportunity for all to experience the life changing impact of the ocean." If that's not convincing in itself, maybe their staff will be! Let me explain:
We arrived on one of the busiest days of the season, and on top of that, it was freaking gorgeous. Upon walking in, I overheard a staff member talking about how they were completely out of boards. So I asked to see if that was true, and I was met with the best customer service I think I've ever experienced. He checked multiple times in the back to see if there were any boards available, he asked to see when a lesson would be returning so we could steal their boards, and he was super kind, happy, and apologetic with his Kiwi accent the entire time.
We asked how long the wait would be and he said, "I dunno maybe ten minutes or so?" Followed by a lot of "I'm sorry guys," and "If you'd like me to refer you to someone else I totally get it! But I do hope you stick with us for a little!" To us, 10 minutes is nothing. If you've ever waited in line for brunch in Seattle, you probably feel the same way. So we laughed and said no problem at all. We did a little shopping at Storm Light Outfitters (highly recommend swinging by) when we hear, "Hey Guys!! We got you boards!" He literally came and found us!
Back at the shop and he's got our two boards loaded on our car before we've even signed the paperwork. But once it came time to hand over our credit cards and disclose our measurements for our wetsuits, I noticed a the bottom of the page it said, "10% off because everything went wrong." LOL If this was everything going wrong, then my life is a complete and utter mess.
A typical surf rental period is about six hours for $40 CAD (that's including wetsuit rental). We obtained the boards at about noon and their last return slot is 7:30 p.m., so we would've had the chance to rent it for the full six hours, but Tom wasn't content. He offered a return time of 10:30 a.m. the following day instead, so we could surf as long as we wanted and maybe even throw in an a.m. ride as well (we're not thaaaat badass). But we took his offer with gratitude, asked him for his favorite surf beaches, picked up some local brews, and hit the road.
Long story short, RENT FROM HERE!
Tofino Beaches: Best Surfing Beaches in Tofino
Cox Bay
Cox Bay is considered one of Canada’s top-rated surf beaches and for good reason. The sandy beach offers rad waves of all sizes year-round, in addition to some epic storm watching in the colder months. It’s split into three sections: the “Corner” on the right side (facing the ocean), which is for more advanced surfers due to its super hazardous and strong rip currents, the “Middle,” which is where you’ll find most surfers of all levels, and the “Lando’s” or the left-hand side, which is ideal for northwest swells. We spent most of our time surfing the Middle at Cox Bay, which was a blast!
You can check up on current conditions using this live surf cam!
North Chesterman
North Chesterman is a bit more sheltered than Cox Bay, so if the waves are looking a little intimidating, head here (it’s right next door). If you’re around in the summer, the waves get pretty flat, which quickly turns this beach into a swimming spot. It’s also a steeper beach, which changes the wave shape.
Mackenzie Beach
Mackenzie Beach is a little less reliable when it comes to constant breaks. In fact, it only really produces surfable waves a few times throughout the colder months, but when the conditions are right, man, does it provide! If both Cox Bay and North Chesterman are looking intimidating, come here for a chance at smaller waves–it’s even more sheltered than the previous two.
Long Beach
Long Beach is located in Pacific Rim National Park, about a 20-minute drive outside of Tofino, and it has a LOT of history in the surfing community. It’s where Tofino’s surf culture began. It’s not one beach but rather a series of smaller beaches and offers gorgeous surf in the warmer months. I haaaad to surf where it all began, so we spent some time riding Long Beach’s waves and it did not disappoint!
Tofino Pubs
So, you have your trendy touristy spots: Shelter, The Wolf in the Fog, and Shed, which are pretty incredible, but then there are the grungy local bars which always tend to be my favorite. Our server from Shelter actually gave us these recommendations.
The Maq
The Maq is a hotel above and a pub below that serves local and regional beer and cider, offers free popcorn (one of my many weaknesses), and is complete with a stage and dance floor. $5 to get in (which I was told a cover here is unusual - it was a poppin' night!). Butterflywingtip and Frase were the two bands playing that night and they were insanely good!The place was crawling with locals, which in Tofino means you're a seasonal worker arriving in May and leaving in November. Rumor has it, you can apply for a visa and hotels in the area will sponsor you to run their establishments! I definitely considered it.
Tofino Brewing
I love a good micro brew–add good vibes and I’m there in a second! Tofino Brewing is all that and more. Check it out if you have time!
Royal Canadian Legion Branch 65
Historically, the Royal Canadian Legion Branch 65 was once a real Royal Canadian Legion building, but its since been turned into a bar with live music. We arrived around 10:00, so probably a little too early, and we were the first ones there. There was a $10 cover and the music sounded good!
Pro Tip: Tofino is serious about their max capacities. Tofino Brewing Co., for example, has a max cap of only 30 people, and Arturo and I were the last to get into The Maq. And this was before COVID!
Tofino Hiking
The Lighthouse Loop: Wild Pacific Trail (Pacific Rim National Preserve)
Worked out the arms while surfing, it's now time for the legs. Well, in all honesty, none of the hikes around Tofino and Ucluelet were all that demanding. The Lighthouse Loop is a beautiful 2.6 km section of the Wild Pacific Trail, which to anyone but a photographer would typically take 30-45 minutes to complete. I, on the other hand, had to stop at every outcropping, trail to the beach, and unique tree on this short loop, so it took me much longer. Do it for the shot, ya know?
The Wild Pacific Trail is rated one of the top ten things to do in British Columbia, and it sure was gorgeous. The trail guides you along the rocky coastline with sea stacks and past the historic Amphitrite Lighthouse. It was originally built in response to a shipwreck in 1908 and replaced a short seven years later to better withstand the fierce winds of the area.
Keep an eye out for birds! Over 300 species migrate through here. Whales often gather here too! Halfway through the loop from the parking lot (if you begin walking to the northeast), you'll turn inland to discover the rainforest and coastal brush. Every turn was absolutely stunning. Highly recommend.
Rainforest Figure 8 trail
Hardly a hike, the rainforest trail is merely a boardwalk stroll through the lush green rainforest of the 511 square-kilometer Pacific Rim National Park. Don't worry, the hike is only 2 km round trip, BUT it features 731 stairs. Make sure those shoes are tied!
You'll have to purchase a park pass to visit (no pass required to drive through), and a pay station is available on site. We were told to hike Route A so that's just what we did! Although, I heard both were incredible and it wouldn't take long to do them.
Tonquin Beach
Another local favorite, Tonquin Beach is a short hike to a hidden cove if you park in the right parking spot. Guess what? We didn't haha, classic I know. The hike wasn't too long though! We arrived with every intention to take a nap, and it turns out we weren't alone. Pretty much everyone was sleeping, no joke. So, we laid out our blanket and passed out for an hour among the little, beached island and saltwater pond with the waves crashing ashore in front of us. There were maybe eight other people there besides us? And one was playing guitar. Not too shabby.
That’s, all friends! I hope this guide inspires you to make the journey out to Tofino, paddle out, and maybe dine with a goat or two along the way. Tt’s well worth it, trust me. As always, PLEASE send me any recommendations, suggestions, or questions! Would love to meet you! Until then, happy tripping!
What People are Saying:
"Thanks for... including us in your blog! I just finished reading it, wow you guys were busy that weekend but you definitely found some of the gems Vancouver Island has to offer. We hope to see you then next time you’re out our way."
- Chad - Old Country Market, Vancouver Island + Tofino
"Beautiful post!... Really enjoyed reading about your time here. It's nice sometimes to be reminded of outsiders perspectives about a place you've become so familiar with!"
- Jess - The Maq Hotel, Vancouver Island + Tofino